For the last week, we have been at a retreat center in San Lorenzo de Cacaotepec, about thirty minutes outside of the city. In the mornings, we received cultural, political, and historical briefings with Gustavo Esteva, which were interesting, challenging, and insightful. Several afternoons, we had guest speakers elaborate on the culture of Oaxacan communities. We also participated in team building exercises with Sergio, our guide from Universidad de la Tierra. UniTierra is a learning center in the city with no teachers, no classes, and no grades. Our other guide, Luisa, also works with UniTierra.
Last Friday, we went on a unique tour of the city that was based on different neighborhoods and socioeconomic classes. Our tour was cut short because the teachers in Oaxaca had organized a protest in which they blocked off many of the main streets. It was a peaceful demonstration that occurs annually as a method of salary negotiation with the state. We did not see much of the action, but it was interesting to talk to locals and hear their take on the situation.
Later that night, we arrived at our retreat, Casa Hacienda el Encuentro. The rooms were simple yet charming, and our meals were delicious and authentic. We spent Saturday working on group-building and adjusting to the new setting.
On Sunday, we went to Monte Alban, the oldest Zapotec ruins in Oaxaca. The scene was breathtaking: you could see all three valleys that surrounded Oaxaca city. We had a wonderful tour guide, who elaborated on the different types of trees, construction, astronomy, and traditions. After a traditional lunch of mole and rice pudding in the city, we went to El Museo Cultural del Santo Domingo. This incredibly expanisive musuem houses much of the jewelery, books, and other artifacts found in and around Oaxaca.
We spent Monday in classes and orientation at the retreat center. On Tuesday, we attempted to watch the inauguration via satellite. It was shaky, but we caught a bit of the speech. It felt like the old days, gathered around a radio, hoping the connection wouldn't fade. Later that day we went on a field trip to San Augustin Etla, a village near the retreat. We went to the home of two women, Rosario and Lydia, who live almost entirely self-sustainably. Their house is made out of adobe, replete with compostable toilets, water jugs for windows, and furniture that they had contstructed themselves. They grow their own vegetables, both outdoors and in a small greenhouse. They also work with local women in the area to prevent domestic violence. Rosario and Lydia were incredibly inspiring and intelligent, and the trip was enjoyed by all.
Wednesday brought challenging classes with Gustavo, which left everyone a little pensive and overwhelmed (in a good way). We spoke of the challenges of sustainable development and the perpetuation of capitalism under the guise of globalization. That afternoon, Nicole Kast, a recent Swarthmore graduate, spoke to us about the culture of indigenous Oaxacans. Nicole recently moved to Oaxaca and is a history teacher and anthropologist.
Thursday, Gustavo answered questions that we all had about the readings he had assigned about Zapatistas and the Oaxaca commune. We then heard from Ruben Valencia, a community leader for young adult activists. After we ate lunch and laid in the sun for a while, Benjamin Maldonado spoke to us about the cargo system in traditional communities. In the cargo system, community members are assigned certain jobs or positions which they must complete in order to move up the ladder and gain respect. This is a way to maintain communal bonds and ensure that the work will be completed.
On Friday, we had our last session of orientation with Gustavo and Mary Lou. After lunch, we hopped on the buses back to the city, where we waited anxiously for our homestay families to pick us up. It felt like the first day of kindergarten all over again. Our families met us with open arms and warm smiles, making us feel at ease in our new homes. The last two days have been spent relaxing, exploring the city, and getting acquainted with our families.
Tomorrow, we start class at Solexico. We will have Spanish in the morning followed by Culture, Sustainability, and Social Change in Oaxaca with Gustavo. You can expect to hear more from us within the coming weeks. We will be dividing up the task of blogging between the homestays, so everyone's voice should come through eventually.
Adios!
Erin, Kiren, and the rest of the group!
(You can click on these pictures to make them bigger)
This is our tour guide at Monte Alban. He was very animated and knowledgeable of the local ecology and history.
This is the group at the retreat center.
This is the courtyard of the retreat center, where we spent time eating and soaking up the rays.
